Designs by Worth and Other Haute Coutures Part I

Wedding Dress: During the 19th century it became fashionable to marry in white if one could afford it. Until the late 19th century, it was quite normal to marry in one's best dress, unless it was a ball dress: Wedding dresses usually had high necks and long sleeves. Even if they were white, they could later be worn as visiting or dinner dresses as their cut didn't deviate from the current fashion.

Queen Victoria made white wedding dresses fashionable.


Before then, anything went for color.

1829 wedding dress:


White was a sign of wealth in the nineteenth century, only wealthy people could afford the upkeep on a white dress. That is why aristocratic women wore it to their weddings.

Empress Eugenie's wedding dress (the start of a long reign as Empress of Fashion):


1864 wedding dress:

1878 Pingat multi-colored wedding dress (Pingat competed with Worth for the upscale market):

1892 Worth wedding dress:

and a 1907 Worth wedding dress:

Thank you so much! Quite a collection. I especially like the 1892 Worth gown.

I was going to say the same thing, Janet. That gown is really lovely and the fabric still looks so creamy and rich.

"Designed by Charles Frederick Worth c.1888, for Esther Maria (Lily) Lewis Chapin to be worn for presentation at a European court. This exquisite gown and train sold to a collector for $101,500 at the Doyle Couture Auction of May, 2001. "

"Designed by Charles Frederick Worth c.1888, for Esther Maria (Lily) Lewis Chapin to be worn for presentation at a European court. This exquisite gown and train sold to a collector for $101,500 at the Doyle Couture Auction of May, 2001. "

I found this photo on another website--is it that dress from a different angle?



the caption only said "A dress by Charles Frederick Worth, a popular couturier of the late 19th century."

Other Worth dresses:

"These costumes are owned by the Museum of the City of New York. Ballgown, circa 1865, of nougat satin trimmed with tulle, swansdown, crystal beads and glass pearls; visiting Costume, circa 1880, of brown and lavender striped satin trimmed with silk patterned in pastel colors and silk fringe; dinner dress, circa 1891, of primrose yellow and devonshire cream satin with chiffon ruffles (worn by Grace Wilson, who married Cornelius Vanderbilt III in 1896); Summer toilette, circa 1900, of black and white engageantes, black satin trim."

"Worth silk satin & applied cut velvet "Belle Epoque" ball gown.‚ Museum worthy & it flaunts Worth's renown use of the finest fabrics."

Afternoon dress [Dinner dress]
Dinner dress
bodice, skirt, petticoat, original box c.1902 
Silk satin five-panel trained skirt; bodice with handmade bobbin lace collar, machine tulle trim at neck, handmade tulle trim along front edge, silk rosettes
Label: 'PARIS/C WORTH/PARIS'

"Jean-Philippe Worth, as the leading designer in The House of Worth, was well known for his opulent gowns of great elegance. Afternoon dress was created for Mary Crowninshield Endicott Chamberlain, the step-mother of the future British Prime Minister, Neville Chamberlain, and wife of politician and social reformer Joseph Chamberlain. It is typical of Worth’s magnificent attention to overall form, texture and detail."

Charles Frederick Worth
Red evening dress
Silk lace and ostrich feathers
c.1885
Lent by the Museum of the City of New York



Charles Frederick Worth
Evening bodice and skirt
Silk jacquard, chenille, seed beads and velvet
1883
Gift of Mrs. Ray Hill
Collection: The Museum at FIT

"This is an absolutely incredible piece of work by Frederick Worth. His ballgowns are the ultimate in style, detail and fit. This is a pre-1905 evening gown with layer upon layer of rich fabrics, trims and floral accents. "

I think this gown is really lovely.

Jean-Philippe Worth
The Lohengrin cloak c.1890 
Textile
Fashion
green silk shot with gold and lined with flesh satin and tulle; bordered with a band of gold braid, cream silk chiffon and pearls, sequins and beads; nine hand-painted angels set in a circle of velvet with beads and gold ruche
centre back length 223.5 (h) x 406.5 (w) cm 
The Arts Centre, Performing Arts Collection, Melbourne, gift of Pamela, Lady Vestey in 1978

"When Worth died, his obituary in Harpers Bazaar stated: ‘no painter, no sculptor, no poet, no actor, no novelist of the past three decades has achieved so widespread a fame as that of this dressmaker of the Rue de la Paix.’ Charles Worth died in Paris on 10 March 1895 aged 69.

In 1879, Charles Worth’s two sons started full-time work at the House of Worth. Jean-Philippe, who had studied art under Corot, assisted with design while his brother, Gaston, helped with management and finance.

In the 1880s Nellie Melba, started dressing at the House of Worth. Some beautiful clothes came out of this partnership and Melba became indebted to Jean-Philippe for his constant help and advice. Worth remained the name most associated with her stage costumes, as well as her private dress. Jean-Philippe died in 1926, aged 70."

These Dresses are so beautiful....really artistic in the fabric and folds! The quality of the material and the hand decorated designs always amaze me. I remember a Cape at an exhibit during this circa  time frame (before it was put behind glass...that was made in Paris)...and visitors would come into that Museum and just stand and stare...and stare...

A few more dresses to awe us...


Same dress but with two different bodices - I believe this was a fairly common practice to get more bang for the buck as it were...this dress looks similar to one worn by Maria Feodorovna.





Day dress circa 1883



Evening dress circa 1893



Evening dress circa 1898



Evening dresses circa 1887 (left) and circa 1892 (right).  The fabric on these just looks absolutely amazing - you can almost feel the weight of the satin.



Detail of beadwork on the 1892 dress



Wedding gown circa 1898 - just look at those immense sleeves! 



Evening dress circa 1925

Evening dress circa 1898

This seems to be the same dress (different angle) as the one I posted on the prior page:

Oops!  Sorry for the duplication...now that we know for sure what the back looks like, I wish we could see the front!