Author Topic: Imperial Family Jewels  (Read 371365 times)

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Offline grandduchessella

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #45 on: August 21, 2004, 06:53:39 PM »
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I think that this tiara (I have awful problems typing that word) is actually from a suite of jewels that was sold fairly recently.
In another post, someone stated that this acquamarime parure had belonged to Ella's mother Pcss Alice and had passed to her.  Does anyone know if this is true?

It doesn't seem like it was originally Alice's based on the info in the catalog. Found that info:
Imperial Jewels from the Collection of Princess Dorothea of Hesse
An Impressive Set Of Aquamarine And Diamond Jewels
Russian, circa 1900
comprising: a Tiara of garland and ribbon bow design
millegrain-set throughout with rose and cushion-shaped
diamonds and decorated with five pear-shaped aquamarines within rose diamond borders; a Necklace, by Faberge, designed as a line of nine step-cut aquamarines within millegrain-set rose diamond borders connected by cushion- shaped and rose diamond ribbon bow motifs, workmaster August Wilhelm Holstrom, 1896-1903; a Bracelet, probably by Faberge, designed as a line of six cushion-shaped aquamarines within millegrain-set rose diamond borders, alternating with cushion-shaped and rose diamond quatrefoil motifs; and a pair of aquamarine and diamond Earrings, each set with a cushion-shaped aquamarine within a border of cushion-shaped diamonds on a single-stone cushion-shaped diamond surmount later fitted case by Koch of Frankfurt and Baden-Baden; Necklace: 355m long; Bracelet: 175mm long, earrings not illustrated The aquamarine and diamond parure was given to Grand Duke
Ernst Ludwig of Hesse-Darmstadt. Subsequently it was
inherited by the Grand Duke's younger son, Prince Ludwig of Hesse and the Rhine. Thereafter, it was given to his cousin, the present owner, Her Highness, Princess Dorothea of Hesse (b. 24th July 1934) on the occassion of her wedding on 1st April 1959. 50,000-60,000 UKP

« Last Edit: April 29, 2009, 10:05:11 AM by Svetabel »
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Offline Martyn

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #46 on: August 23, 2004, 05:50:12 AM »
Thank you Grandduchessella.  As usual you clarify the situation.
So it would seem that the parure is the work of several jewellers and may have been made at different times: I wonder whether the aquamarines were all acquired at the same time and mounted later.  Do you know who made the tiara?
I was a bit suspicious to see the attribution to Pcss Alice as the style of the sttings is the garland style, which was very much in vogue after 1900; the tiara particularly is very different in style to the diamond tiara that was a wedding gift from Q.Victoria.  It is a really beautiful suite of jewels - I love the delicate hue of aquamarines, which along with amethystas and peridots, were very poular for jewellery at this time.
Am I right in thinking that Ella gave it to Ernie?  Could it have been a wedding gift for either Ducky or Onor?  Is this too much supposition?  Has Miss Marple run amok again?  So many questions............
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Offline grandduchessella

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #47 on: August 23, 2004, 07:45:22 AM »
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Thank you Grandduchessella.  As usual you clarify the situation.
So it would seem that the parure is the work of several jewellers and may have been made at different times: I wonder whether the aquamarines were all acquired at the same time and mounted later.  Do you know who made the tiara?
I was a bit suspicious to see the attribution to Pcss Alice as the style of the sttings is the garland style, which was very much in vogue after 1900; the tiara particularly is very different in style to the diamond tiara that was a wedding gift from Q.Victoria.  It is a really beautiful suite of jewels - I love the delicate hue of aquamarines, which along with amethystas and peridots, were very poular for jewellery at this time.
Am I right in thinking that Ella gave it to Ernie?  Could it have been a wedding gift for either Ducky or Onor?  Is this too much supposition?  Has Miss Marple run amok again?  So many questions............


The aquamarine and diamond parure was given to Grand Duke  Ernst Ludwig of Hesse-Darmstadt (probably as Ella was divesting herself of her jewellry). It may have been given for Onor to use--I don't think the Hessians were as rich as most royals in jewellry. I don't think it was for a wedding present. Subsequently it was inherited by the Grand Duke's younger son, Prince Ludwig of Hesse and the Rhine. Thereafter, it was given to his cousin, the present owner, Her Highness, Princess Dorothea of Hesse. Shame it couldn't stay in the family. It is a lovely suite and so much more delicate that many of the jewels Ella had (thinking of that huge emerald necklace). It must've been a lot more comfortable. Plus, with Ella's flair for design and color, I'm sure it suited her coloring and delicate features wonderfully. The workmanship seems to have been done separate. I think it's listed in the previous message that Faberge made the bracelet.
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Offline brnbg aka: liljones1968

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #48 on: August 31, 2004, 07:52:55 AM »
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Am I correct in thinking that the nuptial crown was made by Catherine the Great from a diamond belt? Grandduchessella, the photo in which the jewels are laid out is in fact only half of the picture. Most of the jewels are State jewels but I think that I am correct in saying that there are some of Alix's personal jewels laid out on the table, notably the tiara at the very end on the right which I think was given to her upon her marriage. I'll have to take a look at the wonderful Geoffrey Munn before I attempt to remember who made it (possibly Kochert?) and what it was set with (maybe emeralds?).  This must have been the most dazzling display of jewellery; such a shame that we don't have a record of these remarkable jewels in colour apart from the few pieces that survive.


i don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but, in fact, everything on the table (and, indeed, everything that was eventually to find it's way to the auction-block) was painstakingly documented & photographed (presumably in color).    the son of Peter Karl Fabergé was "persuaded" to do the documentation (how could he refuse those who were killing everyone around him?).     he removed all the stones from their settings, weighed them, cleaned the stones & their settings, replaced them, and then had them photographed (he may have done the photographing himself, but i'm not sure).    

i'm assuming those in power had this done for several reasons....
A). to determine the ACTUAL (intrinsic [sp?]) value (regardless of their
     possible historical significance) of all the jewels & artworks they
     now controlled and in what form;
B). as preparation for their eventual sale, done to raise capital;

et cetera.


just imagine:   somewhere, in some Russian archive, there exists an album or folio --- i'd guess there are several --- probably covered in layers of dust, that contain the images of EVERY JEWEL (state property and personal) along with the carat weights of the stones and
weight of the gold/silver/platinum of the settings!  however i doubt if they did this with every confiscated collection (the task would just be too overwhelming.   as it was, it took the younger Fabergé around 2 years to do what had been "asked" of him...)

i think i could die happy if i were able to liesurely leaf through them all...

(btw, one of the interesting things Fabergé's son discovered during the course of his work concerned the fabulous pieces of colored diamonds {such as those from the 18th century that have the foliage & bees}.....   most of the stones weren't colored.   they were diamonds alright, but there was colored foil on the back of them to give them the desired color {he surreptitiously scratched a few with his fingernail {he considered them just too good to be true.  and he was right.!})

some of the "colored" diamonds in question:
« Last Edit: April 29, 2009, 10:05:53 AM by Svetabel »
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Offline Eurohistory

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #49 on: August 31, 2004, 09:03:25 AM »
The Soviets were rapacious and even stole the Milford Haven jewels.  One porince once mentioned to me that as his grandfather said, "some republics that stand for privacy, property and individual rights, had no qualms about taking "OUR" property from us."  I tend to agree.  Having said that, I was also quite impressed withy the new German republican authorities in the early 1920's and their efforts to "firly" settled property arguments with the former ruling dynasties.  By and large, the Germans did much better than tyheir counterparts in Austria and Russia.

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #50 on: August 31, 2004, 10:45:19 AM »
Quote
just imagine:   somewhere, in some Russian archive, there exists an album or folio --- i'd guess there are several --- probably covered in layers of dust, that contain the images of EVERY JEWEL (state property and personal) along with the carat weights of the stones and
weight of the gold/silver/platinum of the settings!  however i doubt if they did this with every confiscated collection (the task would just be too overwhelming.   as it was, it took the younger Fabergé around 2 years to do what had been "asked" of him...)
i think i could die happy if i were able to liesurely leaf through them all...


Your wish can be granted if you go to San Antonio, Texas to the McNay Art Museum.  6000 N. New Braunfels, San Antonio, Texas 78209 (210) 824-5368.
They have a copy in their library. It is one large volume. We were quite privileged to be shown this rather fragile copy by one of the former librarians there, who was a friend of ours.  It is quite amazing, with exact life size photgraphic plates of each piece (in black and white of course) and the full description.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 06:00:00 PM by admin »

Offline Lisa

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #51 on: August 31, 2004, 10:57:51 AM »
I think I already see it! It was published in 1925 by FERSMAN , wasn't it? It's a jewel , this album! :D
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 06:00:00 PM by Lisa »

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #52 on: August 31, 2004, 11:18:49 AM »
That is indeed the book. Where do you see it? We only know of 2 copies, the other being at the GIA (Gemological Institute of America).

Offline Lisa

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #53 on: August 31, 2004, 11:33:46 AM »
I have seen the French version Les Joyaux du Trésor de Russie in Paris at Library Forney (1 rue du Figuier) number NS 49440 Fol.
The library is specialized in decorative arts.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 06:00:00 PM by Lisa »

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #54 on: September 01, 2004, 08:00:41 AM »
How lucky you are to have been able to view this information.  For those of us who have a keen interest in jewellery, imperial, royal or otherwise, it would be the most wonderful privilege to see this kind of material.
I suppose that this information will never be accessible to most of us; it would be a dream come true should someone be able to issue it in print (unlikely I know).
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Offline grandduchessella

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #55 on: September 27, 2004, 11:49:43 AM »
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It doesn't seem like it was originally Alice's based on the info in the catalog. Found that info:
Imperial Jewels from the Collection of Princess Dorothea of Hesse
An Impressive Set Of Aquamarine And Diamond Jewels
Russian, circa 1900
comprising: a Tiara of garland and ribbon bow design
millegrain-set throughout with rose and cushion-shaped
diamonds and decorated with five pear-shaped aquamarines within rose diamond borders; a Necklace, by Faberge, designed as a line of nine step-cut aquamarines within millegrain-set rose diamond borders connected by cushion- shaped and rose diamond ribbon bow motifs, workmaster August Wilhelm Holstrom, 1896-1903; a Bracelet, probably by Faberge, designed as a line of six cushion-shaped aquamarines within millegrain-set rose diamond borders, alternating with cushion-shaped and rose diamond quatrefoil motifs; and a pair of aquamarine and diamond Earrings, each set with a cushion-shaped aquamarine within a border of cushion-shaped diamonds on a single-stone cushion-shaped diamond surmount later fitted case by Koch of Frankfurt and Baden-Baden; Necklace: 355m long; Bracelet: 175mm long, earrings not illustrated The aquamarine and diamond parure was given to Grand Duke
Ernst Ludwig of Hesse-Darmstadt. Subsequently it was
inherited by the Grand Duke's younger son, Prince Ludwig of Hesse and the Rhine. Thereafter, it was given to his cousin, the present owner, Her Highness, Princess Dorothea of Hesse (b. 24th July 1934) on the occassion of her wedding on 1st April 1959. 50,000-60,000 UKP


This appears to be where the tiara ended up after the Sotheby's auction in 1996. If it's the same one, it was seen at a Versace show in 1997. Seems to have possibly been loaned by a jewel house like Cartier. Do people think it's the same?
« Last Edit: April 29, 2009, 10:06:37 AM by Svetabel »
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Offline Merrique

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #56 on: September 27, 2004, 11:59:52 AM »
It looks the same to me but it's a little hard to tell because I can't see the detail on this tiara very well.Maybe if we had a clearer close up of it it would be easier to tell.
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Offline grandduchessella

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #57 on: September 27, 2004, 12:11:51 PM »
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It looks the same to me but it's a little hard to tell because I can't see the detail on this tiara very well.Maybe if we had a clearer close up of it it would be easier to tell.


That was as clear as I could get it. :-/ I had to blow it up from the original photo.
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Offline Merrique

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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #58 on: September 27, 2004, 06:29:40 PM »
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That was as clear as I could get it. :-/ I had to blow it up from the original photo.


I've been looking at this tiara on and of all day and it does look like the same tiara to me.Thank your for posting the picture Ella.

I swear I need glasses because I had to squint badly to study it lol :P ::) :o ;D
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Re: Imperial Family Jewels
« Reply #59 on: September 28, 2004, 06:44:35 AM »
It might be a copy.